Bjorn Sandberg

I think my favorite costumes are the ones based on actual historical clothing, and this outfit is truly a masterpiece for its ability to bring these garments back to life! Bjorn has provided a marvelous description of the construction methods and source garments, and you can also see more pictures of his attire in this second image or by browsing though this photo gallery. If you have any other questions, you can contact Bjorn at bs(at)netg.se.

This costume is based on Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion". The paned trousers are based on the first costume, a red doublet and pants belonging to an italian nobleman. The pants are made of black velvet, interlined with coarse linen and lined with green polyester/cotton satin, and decorated with gold cord. The pants were made to accompany a matching green velvet doublet (which can be seen on the "nya bilder från kröningen" page at www.nordrike.org). Both of these are decorated with gold cord, over 50 meters in all, which was sewn on with gold coloured thread on machine, since it was just too much work to do by hand.

The doublet worn in this picture is made of black woollen cloth, which is pinked and slashed all over to reveal an interlining of red polyester/cotton satin. Between this layer and the inner lining, which is made of yellow damask, there is a layer of linen with batting attached to it on the front of the doublet. The pattern is based on a youth's leather jerkin in "Patterns of Fashion", but also inspired by several portraits where the upper fabric is covered with vertical slits. To increase the usefulness of this garment, attachable sleeves were made to match. It is hard to see the slits on the body and sleeves of the doublet, but it will probably get easier when it becomes more worn and the slits become larger. The linen shirt is made after a pattern from a preserved shirt currently at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and has blackwork lilies on the neck band.

Finally, the coat, which is the coat of Sir Ralph Verney. The original was made of purple silk damask, with a lining of grey silk shag (sort of 16th century fake fur) and trimmed with gold braid. Since these materials were either unavailable and/or horrendously expensive, the coat is made of thin murrey wool twill and is lined with grey fake fur. Gold coloured "lace", as it was known, is still available but requires that you sew it on by hand for it to look acceptable. Hand sewing being far from my strongest side (although hemming and the like was done by hand), I settled for grey soutach braid, which can be machine-sewn on very discreetly. It is also cheaper, which was an issue since there is over 50 meters of braid on the coat. Except for the material, the coat follows the original closely, and even has the same dimensions, since Sir Ralph seems to have been about the same size as me. It is a very warm coat, good for cold days and if you forget your sleeping bag when you go to events.

The pants, doublet and the embroidery on the shirt were made by a friend, but the shirt and the coat were made by me. The pictures were taken at the renaissance days at Kalmar castle, a medieval castle rebuilt during the renaissance.