Lia de Thornegge

I am so excited to finally be able to feature this beautiful Tudor gown. I really enjoyed watching this project progress in Lia's dress diary last year, but it took her a little extra time to make the hood and get all of the finishing touches just right. But the results were definitely worth the wait! I thought it was a lovely outfit even when she just wore it with coif, but the French hood just makes her look so regal now. You can see more pictures of the gown on her picture page, and Lia was also thoughtful enough to send us some extra info about the construction which you will find below this picture.

This is my very first attempt at late period garb, and I had to start from the ground up. The corset is drafted from Drea Leed's pages and the bodice was draped over that. My farthingale is taken from Margo Anderson's patterns, and the smock is a simple rectangles-and-triangles construction with a square neckline where I thought some blackworking would fit nicely.

The forepart (an old curtain, same as the false "fore-sleeves") is actually incorporated into a petticoat, and in these pictures I am also wearing a linen petticoat between this and the farthingale.

The gown is made from a poly-brocade which I found only just enough to make into a side-back laced bodice and skirt. From the scraps left over I had only enough to make the cap sleeves and the French hood (which explains why it is not pattern matched). The skirt is two straight panels, lined with linen/cotton mix. The bodice is interlined with sturdy cotton and lined with silk. The fur turn-backs used to be a mink fur coat I got cheaply. They are backed with the linen/cotton mix and firmly stitched onto the gown's cap sleeves.

Getting in and out of this outfit requires at least two assistants as the sleeves are as heavy as the rest of the dress, but adds a certain atmosphere in preparing for court and feast :)

Things still left to improve on this outfit is to shorten and stiffen the "fore-sleeves" and make sure my hood does not slip so far back.