Sunday, April 17, 2011

bustle overskirt, v.1.0


For my train dress, I am using several images from my 1883 Peterson's magazine for inspiration.  This fashion plate is probably the closest to what I want for the shape, but with a plaid skirt and solid bodice like you see here.  I could probably just drape something that looks similar, but I thought it would be fun to use one of the 19th c. patterns in Francis Grimble's "Fashions of the Gilded Age".  


I thought the Sateen Dress from 1880 might do the trick, so I made it up exactly as the pattern shows.  But as usual with these period diagrams, the illustration and the actual results don't always match up very well. 

My main complaint is that the front of the skirt is so much longer than what you see in the picture.  Having petticoats and an underskirt to fill out the bottom would help this a little, but it still seems too long to me, and I really wish the folds across the front would be more distinct.  The slightly asymmetrical  bustling in the back also bugs me.  I know it is "right", but I can't help thinking that it just looks like I have a lopsided butt.  

But it's still a good start, and I think these problems are easily fixed.  I'm going to redo the front with much deeper pleats, which should take up the length and make the folds more obvious.  And for the back, I think I'll make both sides match, and I'll add a pleat in the center back at the bottom to make the tail into two points (like my inspiration pic) instead of the squared off look.  

And let me tell you - I'm so glad I basted this thing for the fitting instead of just sewing it up on the machine while hoping for the best (like I usually do)!  I guess I am capable of learning from past mistakes after all.  :)

22 comments:

Jenni said...

I've always wanted to try making one of these. I can't wait to see how yours turns out.

Kat said...

Hmm... I've always thought that the over skirt was just a drape, not a full skirt gathered over. You said something on lj about the pleated skirt? My thought would be that it'd either be pleated into a yoke, or just pleated into the waistband, with the pleats tacked to, say, a length of twill tape on the inside to keep them in place... Let me check something in the morning, tho.

Jen Thompson said...

Thanks for your input, Kat! The description of the skirt from "Gilded Age" does give a few clues about construction. The overskirt is definitely a separate skirt. It is very clear about that... but you are right, other skirts from this period might just have a drape, so it varies. The pattern also says "set the overskirt and skirt together on a double waistband. Sew the under edge of the front of the overskirt on the skirt, above the flounce". I think the skirt in the pattern has a foundation skirt (because of the lower ruffles), but the skirts with the floor-length pleats are less obvious.

Katherine Caron-Greig said...

The spotty dress overskirt was a full 2 or 3 inches shorter over the skirt/petticoat/corset than it was on the dressform or just on me with just the skirt. I was rather surprised with the difference!

Of course, it's a much looser drape and different shape than yours, but I just think you're smart to guess things under the skirt will change it, and I wanted to help confirm your suspicions :)

Dulantha said...

Ladies fashions in 1980s are better than the fashions at present.

Lisa and Robin said...

I was browsing the interwebs and saw this. I made the Truly Victorian polonaise out of the same fabric! Isn't it awesome? Check mine out at
http://idlehandsthems-fitsworkshop.blogspot.com/2011/09/just-pix-l.html

I love your work.

posatheighn said...

Our site hop over to this web-site Click This Link browse around these guys best site her explanation

mcteslee said...

s0p86c6r52 c3e39j2p96 x0t56d7t59 s8f70t8j32 z1q51l6p33 v8u37y0m97

Phill Jones said...

That sounds like a fun approach! The 1883 Peterson’s fashion plate is a great reference, and combining the plaid skirt with a solid bodice should create a beautiful period-appropriate look. Because the android game is distributed outside the Play Store in some regions, installation requires allowing unknown sources in device settings. The official APK remains the safest source for downloading it.

jozaf henry said...

The attention to historical detail is impressive, and it’s great to see how careful fitting and thoughtful adjustments bring the bustle overskirt closer to the original vision.
The 345 live apk pairs live dealer tables with the same referral and bonus system used across the main 345Win platform. Commission earned from referrals applies regardless of which game mode a player prefers.

Davidjhon said...

The dress is already looking lovely, and I think the deeper pleats and symmetrical bustle will bring it much closer to your inspiration!
A real cash earnings platform that updates regularly tends to stay more stable and competitive than one left unmaintained. Checking update logs helps returning players understand what changed.

Davidjhon said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Zainizain said...

What a fascinating project, and it is great to see how carefully you are adapting the historical pattern to achieve the perfect look.
The 3 patti blue apk includes a built in troubleshooting guide covering login failures, forgotten passwords, and account recovery steps. Clearing cache and data resolves many of these issues without contacting support.

Nico Williams said...

I’ve been looking into different ways brands can develop apparel that actually reflects their own style, and I think having a reliable manufacturing partner makes a big difference. I recently came across Grayback International, which offers custom clothing production along with options for printing, embroidery, labels, and private labeling, so it seems like a useful resource for anyone working on a clothing line.

julia said...

Historical-inspired outfits such as bustle overskirts show how distinctive silhouettes and carefully chosen details can create a strong overall fashion statement.

Footwear is an equally important part of completing an outfit, especially when the clothing has a bold or period-inspired style.

For anyone exploring shoes that can complement different fashion looks, Off Broadway offers a range of footwear styles worth browsing.

Stealth said...

Small changes in design and proportions can make a big difference, just like in games where details can affect the overall player experience. Multiple device support means your Alanodt5 login works seamlessly on phones, tablets, and browser sessions. Switch between screens without losing your place in tournaments or cash games.

Edward Steves said...

It’s interesting to see the process behind recreating historical clothing. The attention to period patterns, fitting, and small design details really makes this project stand out. Adjustable bet sizes in flexible Cards games let you control risk precisely on every round you play. Low stakes protect learners while high limit tables attract seasoned players chasing larger pots.

Damon lucas said...

It’s fascinating to see the process behind creating historical clothing. The attention to period details, fitting, and construction makes this bustle overskirt project especially interesting. daily login offers combined with referral bonuses create a dual income stream requiring minimal effort to maintain. Opening the app plus sharing your invite link generates credits from two separate sources.

Jacob tyler said...

This is a fascinating look at historical fashion and garment construction. The attention to detail in the bustle overskirt design makes the project especially interesting. Dedicated server hardware behind a reliable community private server ensures low ping and stable connections for smooth real time PvP. Infrastructure investments by the development team prevent lag and disconnection issues.

mason said...

Interesting topic. It would be useful to understand the specific challenges Monad Chain Games is designed to address and how its approach differs from existing solutions.
Compare fast withdrawals speeds across multiple teen patti platforms before committing deposits to just one app. Processing times vary widely and choosing the fastest option saves unnecessary waiting.

jeremy said...

Choosing the right needle size can make a big difference in the final result. It’s helpful to consider the fabric, thread, and type of stitching before getting started.
Students and part time workers earn money through mobile gaming apps that fit around unpredictable schedules naturally. Playing during commutes and breaks turns idle minutes into actual depositable income.

simon richard said...

This is a great example of why fitting and basting are so important in sewing. You’ve identified the problems clearly, and your planned changes sound like they’ll improve the skirt quite a bit. DK999 displays real time statistics including your win percentage, average pot size, and hand history for self analysis. Data driven improvement through performance tracking accelerates your growth faster than guesswork. dk999

Post a Comment